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While recent appointments at Dior and Chanel have generated significant buzz during the current Paris fashion week, it was the inaugural presentation from the fashion house that truly captivated the media spotlight. The event featured a unexpected guest: Meghan Markle, making her initial European outing in a three-year period.

That Saturday night in the city of lights, the spectacle of other major houses – and even the notable attendee – were all outshone with the sheer impact of the Balenciaga show.

The Duchess added significant glamour and excitement to the Parisian runway.

Until that moment, the overall atmosphere surrounding Pierpaolo Piccioli’s debut had been relatively serene. Balenciaga is a time-honored label, and the creative force is globally acclaimed as a master of his craft. Moreover, he is cherished for his image of the kindest personality in the business. Many assumed that provocative runway antics had exited the brand's identity with the move of the edgy designer Demna to Gucci. However, sometimes the most gentle individuals spring a few shocks, and the appearance of royalty significantly amplified the media frenzy.

The designer views himself as an master builder, building silhouettes that never touch the body.

Intriguingly, the main idea of Piccioli’s “manifesto”, as he explained it after the show, was women's liberation. His starting point was the revolutionary 1957 design by Balenciaga, a silhouette that sits proud of the body, not highlighting nor restricting a natural body shape. He stated that this design was a powerful manifestation of a evolving cultural mood that was starting to transition from the conservative norms of the 1950s towards the more free-spirited era. The idea centered on female empowerment. It freed women from the weight of clothes that sit on their body and define them by their shape. That garment enabled women to be free in space.”

The brand's legendary shapes were included in the presentation, such as this ‘cocoon’ coat.

Garments that maintain their own shape are central to the Balenciaga's philosophy. Piccioli equated this creative process to being an master builder: building forms that avoid direct interaction with the body, while constantly considering the individuals who will occupy these creations. The founder was obsessed with the human form and with materials, and with a key factor – the space in between.”

First onto the catwalk was a fresh take of the loose-fitting garment, extended to an floor-grazing length, accompanied by opera gloves – but also with distinctive eyewear that served as a direct nod to the futuristic edge of Balenciaga’s Demna era.

The designer, who at 58 adorns himself with beaded necklaces and radiates an calm, bohemian vibe, does not view seeing design as a personal rivalry. He believes that it is “cooler” for designers to acknowledge each other’s abilities. He mentioned that he was seeking a successful fusion between the couture roots of the brand, and its more contemporary urban phase. Balenciaga’s most iconic silhouettes were prominently featured in the collection: a voluminous outerwear piece, this time in a vibrant poison green, and a A-line dress in a dramatic violent purple.

The phenomenon of Parisian style has become a modern money-spinner. The American designer is an designer from the US, but he masters this style code. The designer had a professional relationship with Phoebe Philo during her period as creative director, and then spent six years elevating Polo Ralph Lauren into a symbol of approachable fashion. Currently leading Céline, he is infusing the inclusive spirit of his previous work to French fashion. He presented trench coats, straw baskets, and luxury fabrics tied around bags – the signature details of the local style – executed in bright hues, with an upbeat American tone. This is not an exclusive label, or a brand that wants to exclude people,” he commented following the event. “I hope that everyone feels desirable in these clothes. When you wear this brand, you may not have the strangest thing, but you have the perfect garment, and you have the self-assurance to wear it.”